FALL INSPECTION CHECKLIST (part 5)

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This is part 5 and the final installment of this series on getting your home ready for winter. This chapter will cover  the Kitchen, the Attic & the Garage areas.

Kitchen:

The kitchen is one of the most used rooms in most homes. As such, it gets a lot of wear and needs a bit more attention to keep it from deteriorating.

Check all the appliances for proper operation:

• Dishwasher; Look for any signs of leakage around the door gasket and on the floor under the front.  It’s a good idea to take the kick plate off and look under the unit for signs of leaks.  Undetected leaks can cause big problems like mold and wood rot that can be expensive to fix.  Pull out the racks and check the wheels, spin the wash arm and look for free movement. Check the bottom for small items or silverware that has fallen down there.  Plastic items can get melted by the heating element used for drying and make a mess.
• Refrigerator; Remove the kick plate and clean the dust bunnies and junk that seems to gather there. Check the drip tray for water and possible mold. Use a brush or vacuum to clean the coils. blocked coils will cause the refrigerator to work extra hard.  it wastes energy and can damage the compressor. check the door seals for proper contact all the way around buy closing the door on a dollar bill. Most are magnetic these days. You should need to tug on the bill firmly to pull it out.  If it comes out easily anywhere, you may need to replace the gasket. Look in the freezer.  Is there a build up of frost and ice?  This is a good sign that the door gasket is bad or the auto defrost is not working properly. Has the drinking water filter been changed recently?
• Cooktop or Range; Check the burners to make sure they all light or heat up as they should. Check the oven, both the bottom and top elements (broiler) or burners for proper function. Look at the door gasket.  Is it sealing all the way around? Are there stains or streaks on the oven face that could indicate a heat leak? Is there an “anti-tip” device installed to keep the range from tipping over if a child climbs up on the open door?  There should be. These appliances are heavy and kids will be kids.
• Countertops: Check for cracked tiles or deteriorated grout. Look at all the areas that should be caulked to prevent water from leaking down into or behind the counter, especially around the sink.
• Cabinets; Check all the doors and drawers for smooth operation and proper function. It’s easier to repair a loose hinge that to replace a door when it falls off. Are your drawers overloaded? This puts a lot of strain on the guides, pulls and drawer bottoms. They can fall out! Take all the junk out of the sink cabinet and look for signs of leaks or moisture. I frequently find problems in this area because it’s so full of junk that no one ever looks back there.
• Lighting; Is there ample light over the work areas like the sink, stove, eating area? Are there exposed bulbs above the sink? Exposed bulbs are dangerous near any area that is subject to water splash.  They can explode!

Attic area:

First, find the attic access.  Surprisingly, I have found during inspections, that many people do not even know where the access is located or they have it blocked with storage. Many times it is located in a closet ceiling and requires a few minutes to “dig it out” so you can enter the attic.

Some attics are big enough to enter and stand up.  Others are too small to enter easily and must be crawled on your belly or viewed as best as possible from the access hatch.

Moving around in the attic is seldom easy!

A note of caution here, if there is no flooring or boards laid down on top of the ceiling joists to walk or crawl on, DO NOT put any weight on the actual top of the ceiling plaster or dry wall, you will crack it or even fall through!  Don’t ask me how I know this! The actual ceiling may be obscured by insulation and heating ductwork so be careful. Always keep your weight on the tops of the ceiling framing called joists.

Inspecting the attic:

The first inspection should be during daylight hours and it should be done without a flashlight and no lights on in the attic. Look for any holes or gaps that are letting light in. These may also be pathways for moisture.

Turn the lights on and/or use a flashlight:

• Look for signs of animal activity like rodent droppings, chewed cardboard or paper and even wiring insulation. Look for piles of dry grass of all things. Birds will get in and build nests.  I have seen bundles of dry grass the size of a hay bale! Obviously, the holes that they are getting into should be closed up and the dry grass removed.  It’s a fire hazard.
• If you have powered attic fans(s), check them for free movement, noisy operation, damaged wires or loose parts.
• Look at the insulation, the bottom of the roof deck, roof framing and end walls and check for signs of moisture or damp spots. Note any split or sagging rafters.
• Inspect any visible heating/AC ductwork for damage or leaks. If a duct connection is leaking, it will leave a telltale black dusty spot on the insulation or the surrounding area that is a tip off. No reason to heat the attic unless it is a living space. That just wastes energy.

Garage:

Most garages don’t have a ceiling so the roof framing is exposed.  Look for signs of leaking, damaged framing etc.

Check the garage door.  Make sure it moves freely without hitches or jerks.  Look at any counterbalance springs and make sure they are the “safety” type with cables or rods down the center of the spring that keep them from flying around if they should break. And, they DO break, often with great force, firing parts of the spring around the area that could damage things or hurt people. Look for dents or damage on the door itself as well as any tracks or guides it runs on. Check for loose parts, screws or bolts that could cause a failure during operation.  If you have an automatic opener installed, make sure that all the safeties are functional.  There are usually two safety systems.  One is controlled by two sensors near the floor on either side of the door.  Make sure these are not blocked by storage so they cannot “see” each other.  If the door requires holding the button down until it closes, this may be the problem.  The second safety device is one that stops the door while it is closing if it encounters resistance. Both should be fully functional.

Look around at the items stored in the garage. Are there tools and garden stuff that could fall over and damage something or trip someone?

Well, that’s about it for this series. Use this checklist to inspect your home before winter comes and save yourself time, money and aggravation.

I hope you found this useful.  Please feel free to comment.  you may always contact me if you have questions.